From dp025@seqeb.gov.au Tue Nov 26 04:13:25 1996 Newsgroups: alt.surfing Subject: D.J.Files..bits of a surfin life #67 Hide & Squeak - djdolfin.67 [1/1] From: dp025@seqeb.gov.au (Bear) Date: 26 Nov 1996 04:13:25 GMT Disclaimer : None needed, for a change. The D.J.Files #67 Hide and Squeak A Sunday in 1996. Krakatoa decides to check out the bottom end of the 'Coast, after the weather has cleared up and the wind dropped. It was crap in the morning. Snapper/Greenmount doesn't look too bad: about 3-5' faces. Good long- boarding conditions...and that's what Krak' rides, these days. Along with the majority of Gold Coast surfers over 40. Their surfing is slowing down, along with their sex lives and general metabolism, and golf is beginning to look like strenuous activity. But who am I to criticise!? There's not much of a crowd out either, but it's getting late, so there may not be too many rides. Krak' drops into the first empty one he sees, sets up the turn and walks up the fiberglass path to a forward trim position. There are enough people about, paddling back, to necessitate a few walk-back stalls, turns and repeat walk-ups. He rounds the corner into Greenmount, due to a combination of wave-of-the-day and being able to push thru the 'dead' spot just before the rox. By the time he pulls out, he's had a 200metre plus ride. Most sensible blokes would get out and walk back around the path, but Krak' is, in all fairness, still a pretty fit man. He swims (for a club) and cycles. You have to do these sorta things on the 'Coast. Yuppies, posers and their older equivalents. Joggers, cyclists and power-walkers( funny this one...I've never seen the batteries, it looks like normal propulsion to me) abound around dawn, most days, in the special lane set aside for them on the beach-side road. All designer gear and walkman stereos. Oh!, and mobile phones of course, being the 90s. So Krak' decides to paddle back. It takes some minutes, but he gets out again before sunset. He lets a few people take off unhindered - he's never been a snaker, of course. Then he gets another wave to himself. As he cranks his log thru its initial turn, something flashes in the water. Before he can think "shark!", a dolphin's head pokes out of the wave, right in front of the nose of his board, just as he's doing his style walk-up. There's a special kind of joy in sharing a wave with a dolphin, as I'm sure many of you will know. As he sees the first of the 'obstacle coursers' paddling toward him, Krak' shouts "looka-the-dolphin!" But as he does, it slips into the wave, behind and beneath his board.. The guy paddling out peers along the wave. Sees nothing. The cetacean pops out again. Another surfer drifts near. Krak stalls slightly, leans into a casual bottom turn, shouts "looka-the-dolphin!" again. Once more, it's not to be seen by the passing paddler. This repeats several times, with Krak' doing the shout and the dolphin hiding. Once he could swear the dolphin winked at him when it re-appeared. Hardly realising he had rounded Greenmount again, Krak was totally enthralled by this cheeky ocean fellow. When he pulled out eventually, the dolphin leapt once,in delight thought Krak'( but maybe we anthropomorphise too much with these creatures ? ), before heading off out into the Pacific. And that was the end of his late arvo session. Two waves, both well over 200metre rides; one shared with a non-human snaker. "The world", as our SBS channel ad. says, "is an amazing place". *** -- Bear