From dp025@seqeb.gov.au Thu Dec 05 06:10:00 1996
Newsgroups: alt.surfing
Subject: D.J.Files...bits of a surfing life  #70 cccold - djcccold.70 [1/1]
From: dp025@seqeb.gov.au (Bear)
Date: 5 Dec 1996 06:10:00 GMT
  
  Disclaimer :  All true. Only the names have been changed..etc.
                

                  The D.J.Files #70

       Fire and Ice

       D.J. took off on one last shoulder-high glass wall. At this temperature
 _real_ glass would probably crack. Carving out of the initial turn, he put a
 neoprene-mittened hand into the face. The pressure added to the icy feeling
 of the water thru the aerated rubber. Everything was perfect: clear sky, long
 lines and no wind. But the water was close to freezing and the air was down
 there in sympathy with it. Two hours in it should be enough for anyone.
       A couple of cutbacks and a finishing floater and he rode the broken
 whitewater all the way in. Not proned, standing. To keep as much body heat in
 as he could. He jogged up the beach. Threw the board into the back of the VW
 camper, of which he had the newest. Typical. He took off the gloves and boots.
 He lit the stove, then a cigarette and waited for the van to warm up. By the
 time he had finished the cigarette, the van was warm and he was ready to get
 changed.
       Other people were either changing outside cars, or huddling in small
 panel vans and trying to squirm out of their own neoprene numbers. But there
 were others about with the 'luxury' of kombis kitted out with stoves. A few
 vehicles away from D.J., Will Stevens was clambering into his split-window bus.
 Rave and Steve-O were already in it and protesting that there wasn't enough
 room for all 3 to change simultaneously. They even said one of them would
 wait outside if he wanted, since it _was_ his van. But no, he reckoned 3 was
 OK in there.
      So, elbows and knees all over the place, they proceeded to de-neoprene
 themselves in the rapidly steaming-up bus. Will always put _both_ burners on
 to get as much heat as quickly as possible into the bus and himself. Rave was
 sat down with his jeans almost done up when he sniffed the air. Steve-O,
 standing in a crouch doing his up, peered out thru his long hair to do the
 same. They both got as far as "What's that sm-", when Will yelled out and
 straightened (which of course is imnpossible in a camper of this type when
 the roof's not raised), promptly smacking his head on the roof.
      Will wiped his wet towel frantically between his buttox. It was several
 minutes before the smell of burnt hair faded away. This was the first, but
 apparently not the _only_, time that Will did this. Some reckoned he got to
 enjoy the quick singeing and the smell of burnt hair (or even flesh!). It's
 a sick world....

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-- 
Bear