======== Newsgroups: alt.surfing Subject: Surfing stokes From: ankleslop@aol.comtest (AnkleSlop) Date: 11 Mar 1999 03:19:27 GMT I like it that I will drive an hour and a half after my ham-n-egger job just to have some water time. Makes me feel like a real person again. I like that "Oh shit" feeling I get after something bumps me in the water and you wait to see if it will return. You never find out what it was but it never comes back anyway. I like waiting till the last minute before I duck-dive a thick one. I like the fact that someone figured out HOW to duck-dive. I like it when I catch a sweet ride but my friends say thay never saw it. Oh, those guys. I like heat on the feet after a cold session. I like kicking out sometimes just to catch air. I like nose drains. I like surfing. You? Ankleslop "He does seem to have kook-like qualities." Gamivia Duke, Costa Rica 1995 ======== Newsgroups: alt.surfing Subject: Re: Surfing stokes From: rick@mesagroup*DOT*.com (Rick Ciaccio) Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 20:06:54 GMT ankleslop@aol.comtest (AnkleSlop) wrote: >I like it that I will drive an hour and a half after my ham-n-egger job just to >have some water time. Makes me feel like a real person again. >I like that "Oh shit" feeling I get after something bumps me in the water and >you wait to see if it will return. You never find out what it was but it never >comes back anyway. >I like waiting till the last minute before I duck-dive a thick one. >I like the fact that someone figured out HOW to duck-dive. >I like it when I catch a sweet ride but my friends say thay never saw it. Oh, >those guys. >I like heat on the feet after a cold session. >I like kicking out sometimes just to catch air. >I like nose drains. >I like surfing. >You? I like the soreness after a session on a big day. I like the way my neck feels after the chiropractor cracks it. I like barely making the drop on a 15'+ face as it pitches. I like being stinkeyed in the lineup at big Blacks while bodysurfing-- knowing those that are giving it would not have the balls. I like wiping out. I like the crusty feeling on my face on the way home. I like thinking I might die and making it back outside, thrills be damned. I like seeing fish in the wave as I drop in. I like being scared. I like showing off for my woman. I like my kids to think I'm crazy. I like everyone to think I'm crazy. I like thinking "oh no" in a big closeout, and nothing happens. I like the thought of fading to black on a macker rather than growing decrepid. I like the sound of a wild cam. I like the sound of 6000 rpm. I like being a loner. I like the Wedge Crew. I like fingerstyle guitar. I like it when people's eyes get big when I mention the Wedge. I like doing nice things for people that don't know me. I like honesty. I like Hawai'ians. Some fodder for your notes Whirlawhip. >Ankleslop > >"He does seem to have kook-like qualities." >Gamivia Duke, Costa Rica 1995 > Rick Ciaccio -------------------------------------- www.wedge.org - Wedge Preservation Society If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space. ======== Newsgroups: alt.surfing,alt.surfing.longboard Subject: Re: Surfing stokes From: DDaniel Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 00:48:58 -0800 AnkleSlop wrote: > I like it that I will drive an hour and a half after my ham-n-egger job just to > have some water time. Makes me feel like a real person again. I like that too. > I like that "Oh shit" feeling I get after something bumps me in the water and > you wait to see if it will return. You never find out what it was but it never > comes back anyway. I don't like the first part of this, but I like the second. > I like waiting till the last minute before I duck-dive a thick one. Me too. > I like the fact that someone figured out HOW to duck-dive. It was Sir Thomas Duck.* They knighted him for it. *Aren't you glad it wasn't Sir Thomas Crapper -- cuz you know what duck diving would then be called. See http://www.plumbingworld.com/historythomas.html for more if you wish. > I like it when I catch a sweet ride but my friends say thay never saw it. Oh, > those guys. (We know the same guys). > I like heat on the feet after a cold session. I like the heat of the sand after a warm session. > I like kicking out sometimes just to catch air. I like riding it all the way to the beach, kicking out as the wave expends the last of its engery on the shore, catching the board in mid-air, and landing in inches of water as the wave passes me up the beach. I also like that I still have most of my teeth after all this time of doing that. > I like nose drains. (it's a fine man who, er, appreciates, uh, so many things). > I like surfing. You? I like the warm water on a warm day at Huntington Cliffs with a group of old friends. I like to convince myself I like the variety of a cold day, in cold water, with a cold offshore, especially if I forgot the wetsuit. It's a good thing (Can I say that without a copyright infringement letter from Martha Stewart?). I like to be the first out in the water. I like to be the last in after the sun has set. I like to answer, when someone asks if I came back out for a few more (because they saw me surfing hours ago), that I never left. I like the smile on their face when they know it's true. I like to answer, when someone asks if I came back out for a few more (because they saw me surfing hours ago), that I never left...even if now, sometimes, it might not be, er, truthful. I like the smile on their face when they know it's not true. I like to be among friends who talk in the line up. I like to be among friends in the lineup and very few words are spoken, only a "hi" when they arrive, and a "I'll see ya later," or just "later" just before they catch one in. I like seeing grandchildren of my friends in the lineup. I like still knowing a lot of surfers just by their stance, their paddle, the little differences of their moves, the part of the wave they seek to pass through on the way out, their position on the board, their usual spot in the lineup. the way they duck dive, the particular shake of their head as the come up after a duck dive, those little things. I like some spots where you can surf for half the day before someone else shows up. I like traveling a long way to surf and running into someone I know who traveled just as far, but from somewhere else. I like the things in preparation of the ride, and the anticipation as it builds. I like the first glimpse of the beach. I like waxing my board. I like walking down the beach to the water. I like first hitting the water. I like the first paddle out. I like selecting my line up. I like choosing the wave. I like the drop. I like to look straight down as I drop. I like to look back up the face as I drop. I like to see it all, not just looking to the shoulder with brief glances back as I cut back and forth, or up and down, but to look hard at all the wave has to offer from views that I want to see, whether no one else does so, or for that matter, even if everyone else choses to do so. I like surfing for an hour without getting my head wet, and then only because I couldn't resist a head dip, when I could have easily slipped down the face a little instead. I like floating on my back between sets, and listening to the surge as it approaches. I like diving to the bottom just to have a look-see. I like paddling out beyond the surf line and just floating for a while, thinking, pondering, remembering old times, reflecting on new times, things that are different, things that are the same. I like my old boards. I like my new boards. They remind me of my old boards, when they were new, and when they were not. I like the memory of getting a brand-new board, when I was a kid, and keeping it in my room for the first week, er, weeks. I like waxing a new board for the first time. I like the memory of packing up to travel to a surf contest set for the next morning, but leaving my board in my room to carry out and put it on top clean and dry in the morning, even if the fog would have it wet before I drove three blocks. I like that my father surfed, and his father before him. I like that my mother surfed. I like the story of how my mother and father met, surfing. I liked surfing Malibu, long ago, and people there, in the water, asking me if I was my Mom's son. It was good to be recognized as my Dad's son, but that happened all the time everywhere I surfed, and on the beach, and in stores, and well, everywhere. But traveling to Malibu, and to be recognized, in the water, by other surfers, as part of the other half of me, is a good memory. I like knowing Tubesteak. I like just about everything about the beach. I like the sea urchins, especially when I don't step on one (but then again, they don't like that either). I like the seals, the fish, the dolphins, and the birds. I don't especially like sting rays, but if they have to be there, I like Alpolph's meat tenderizer. Hammerheads. I don't like hammerheads. And barracuda. I don't like barracuda. They look mean, and in my experience, they are mean. Big ones. Little ones. Every size in between. I'm sure that they were put here for a purpose. I still don't like them -- not that they care. I like that I leave the beach cleaner than I found it. I like the days we can drum up a whole crew and improve things on the beach for everyone. I like doing things alone, and not having anyone but me know who fixed that, or improved that, etc. I like that after I have surfed, there is no evidence of my intrusion into nature. No pitons in the rock, no desert sand moved by my 4x4 or motorcycle, no tree disturbed, no trampled grass, no campfire ashes, no trash. Any splash, or wake, or spray from my board, long gone. By the time I'm out of the water, there is no mark of any kind. The ocean has been left looking untouched for the next surfer, or even the next beach goer. I like that, I like that a lot. ======== Newsgroups: alt.surfing,alt.surfing.longboard Subject: Re: Surfing stokes From: steve m Date: 11 Mar 1999 15:27:36 GMT Way too many good things being listed to add much to. I'll just sum all those things up for what they mean to me: I like Surfing. There is *one* other thing I want to comment on though: DDaniel wrote: : AnkleSlop wrote: : > I like nose drains. : (it's a fine man who, er, appreciates, uh, so many things). iking nose drains is not as trivial as it seems. I *Love* nose drains. I'm serious. I couldn't ever figure out why, but seeing this thread made me think more about it. I think I figured it out: You take all those things listed about why surfing is so great. You go out for a session, and you are stoked. Then, you go back to school, job, home, etc., and you forget a lot of that feeling you had in your session because you get caught in the daily grind of non-surfing things. For example, you're in your daily routine getting stressed out. You look down, whether it be to answer the question on your test, finish that beaurocratic paperwork, squirt the ketchup on some customer's burger, etc, and your nose drains. You stop for a minute, maybe a little embarrassed, but your main thought is, "Yeah, I *surfed* today," and all the things listed in this thread come back, and it makes the day a little less stressful again. Later, Steve P.S.....the day may get a little *more* stressful when the customer complains about the "funny taste" of his burger. -- ************************************************************** There's a place where you can forget, you get wet, it's free You get high, you're alive.....Surf's up tonight. -Midnight Oil, Surf's Up Tonight, Breathe cd ======== Newsgroups: alt.surfing Subject: Re: Surfing stokes From: "John Ferguson" Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 17:46:31 -0500 AnkleSlop wrote in message <19990310221927.18189.00000852@ng36.aol.com>... ....... >I like surfing. >You? I can think of a few: I like getting getting sunburns, it's like getting punished for being indoors too much. I like having hair that's a lighter color than my skin, without chemicals. Chicksdigit. I like friends, family, and coworkers not being able to find me; since I dropped everything to drive to a beach three hours away. I like sleeping in my car, or in a mom&pop motel on the A1A. I like watching a sunrise over the water on the East coast of Florida, and set on the West coast the same day. I like catching the "Green Flash" on a clear evening. I like passing out in complete exhaustion after dusk from being in the water most of the day. I like driving to distant, less popular spots, and still bumping into someone from my hometown in the lineup. It's the only time I ever see some people like that. We talk about exchanging #'s, but we never seem to go in at the same time. I like it when a huge pod of dolphins take over the lineup at NSB. I like seeing hatched turtle-egg shells by Patrick's AFB. I like predicting a small, two hour swell on the gulf coast. Getting there before it hits, and surfing it till it's gone. I like Hurricaines, but not if they get too close. I like paddling out in crappy, windblown conditions when there's surfers on the beach and no one in the water. I like catching the one good ride that sends them out, well, maybe not. I like going to a break where no one knows me, surfing well, and exchanging only smiles. I like small zippy waist-high waves, esp when it's sunny and warm, and just a beautiful day. I like riding a longboard like a shortboard, smacking a lip and feeling all 9' vibrate under my feet. I like it when I have a long free-fall on a pitched takeoff, but penetrate deep and don't get dragged. Maybe I can snag another one on the same set. I like using Cocoa Pier Parking tokens to get a free beer. My friend Todd doesn't drink, and had about $20 worth of tokens in the bottom of his jeep which he gave to me last week. The next round's on me. John.